A Fond farewell to The Walled Garden
Looking back and a fond farewell to The Walled Garden
Ed Bollom – Head Gardener
At this time of year, as we reach the winter solstice, I always think it’s worth taking a moment to reflect on the past growing season and look forward to the next. This year, for me, it is particularly poignant because after almost a decade at Gordon Castle I am moving on to pastures new. So, I am briefly taking over from Liz Ashworth who normally writes the blog, to say good bye and look back not only over the last year but over the last 10 years.
My first thoughts when I saw plans for the walled garden back in 2014 was that the whole project was totally crazy! The sheer size and complexity of Arne Maynard’s design was both exciting and daunting and despite my initial trepidation, I felt that the chance to help create one of Britain’s largest kitchen gardens was too good to miss!
When I started working in the garden in March 2015 it could only be described as a building site, the café had just been completed and the newly restored greenhouse was looking magnificent but the rest of the garden was pretty empty with just one or two fruit and vegetable beds in production, we really had our work cut out.
There is something very exciting about starting with a blank canvas, or in this case a field with a wall around it. Before I arrived, the ground had been levelled, the irrigation installed and the main paths had been laid out but all really exciting stuff, i.e the landscaping, garden structures and most importantly of all the planting, had hardly begun. Back then we had a larger team and the rate of progress was really impressive. By Christmas of 2015 we had surfaced most of the paths, planted the lavender beds (over 3000 plants in total) and completed the remaining cut flower and vegetable gardens. At that time, although the café was getting busy, seeing a visitor to the garden was a rarity.
The following year we planted up the two huge herb beds at the northern end of the garden with a myriad of herbs and medicinal plants, divided up with informal rosemary hedges. Demand for ingredients for our products was rapidly increasing and the garden needed to start earning its keep! Back then we were planting trees by the hundreds, long rows of trained apple trees were starting to snake around the garden and in the Autumn of 2016, we installed our 8 wonderful pear tunnels ready to be planted with 88 grafted whips the following spring.
By 2017 the garden felt as though it was really starting to take off, we had a visit from the lovely Jim Mcoll and featured on BBC’s Beechgrove Garden, giving us a much-needed boost in visitor numbers. Our vegetable and cut flower beds were in full production for the first time and we were starting to get the epic harvests that we are used to now. One of the most satisfying parts of my job has always been harvesting our produce and seeing it being enjoyed by so many people!
In November 2017 I took over the job as head gardener and the really hard work began in earnest. Over the following two years we planted the cherry orchard, built and planted the soft fruit garden, compost bays, trials beds and meadows but beyond that there is a lot that goes on behind the scenes when you create a new garden. I had my work cut out putting together an effective team of gardeners, creating sowing rota’s and systems of work, promoting the garden, taking tours and giving talks, not to mention endless admin, record keeping and risk assessments. I soon found out that the work of a head gardener is never ending!
The outbreak of covid in 2020 had a huge impact on the garden. We had made grand plans with Arne Maynard to overhaul our central borders and of course all 10,000 or so plants arrived just as all of the gardeners were furloughed! Somehow Zara and I managed to get them all planted in a very quiet garden, feeling quite cut off from the rest of the world. It was such a joy to see the return of our gardeners and volunteers later that year, followed by a huge influx of visitors desperate to get outside and get gardening again.
The Walled Garden has gone from strength to strength over the last 3 or 4 years, we’ve really perfected growing a huge range of plants and the team has grown into a lean, mean, gardening machine! The garden feeds literally thousands of people every year, produces wonderful cut flowers to brighten homes and lift spirits, grows ingredients for dozens of different products and helps educate visitors through courses, workshops and inspiration. I feel so proud of what we have all achieved. Gordon Castle Walled Garden has become firmly established of one of the finest kitchen gardens in Britain. It has been the hardest job I’ve ever had but also the most rewarding, I am going to miss the garden very much but the people I work with even more.
So, what of the future? My wife Anna and I are starting our own business, Bollom Gardens, offering specialist garden maintenance and advise for both private and public gardens in the north of Scotland. I’m also hoping to fit in some writing and photography, so I think I’ll be as busy as always.
2024 has been a fabulous year in the garden, despite being the wettest and windiest year we’ve had since we started the project and whilst our plants appreciated all the rain, the gardeners certainly did not! Our long central borders and cut flower beds filled out beautifully through the summer and continued to put on a wonderful display well into the autumn, we were still picking sweet peas in November! We cropped over 5 tons of apples and ran a grand total of 13 workshops but the highlight of 2024 must have been winning the RHS Partner Garden of the Year Award. It was a huge boost after a very challenging summer and it’s a testament the skill, hard work and dedication of our wonderful gardeners and volunteers. Many, many thanks to everyone who voted for us!
For my last week at Gordon Castle I’ve working alongside the new head gardener, Jennifer Wright, trying my best to show her the ropes and help her settle in. Jennifer takes over from January 2025, I’m sure the garden is in safe hands and there are plenty of exciting plans for the future.
All that remains is for be to say a big thank you as always to the staff, gardeners, volunteers and visitors who make The Walled Garden such a special place. I hope you all have a Merry Christmas and a very happy new year!
In The Walled Garden above ground is at rest while beneath, Mother Nature is busy preparing for the year to come, never-the-less, there is still an opportunity to enjoy the last of this year’s winter produce.
Festive Recipes from The Walled Garden – Liz Ashworth
The Ultimate Crisp Roast Potato
Starchy potato varieties like King Edward, Maris piper or Rooster roast best.
Allow up to 150g peeled potato per person. Cut potatoes to even size, cover with cold salted water, bring to the boil and simmer 5 minutes. Drain through a colander or sieve. Shake to dry and fluff the outside. Score with the prongs of a fork (if liked) to create more cracks which will roast crisp.
Heat oil or fat in a heavy roasting tin in a heated oven at 200C (180C fan) 400F, Gas 6. Add the potatoes, baste then roast till golden turning occasionally. Drain on kitchen towel in a heated dish. Keep crisp in a warm oven.
Potato Ribbons
Wash potatoes and peel if liked. Use a potato peeler to peel the potato into strips. Soak in cold water. Dry thoroughly then deep fry till crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen towel. Sprinkle with salt and serve with dips.
Parmesan Baby Potatoes
Serves 4
Boil 450g scrubbed baby potatoes till tender, drain well and steam. Toss in a little melted butter then shake in a bag of finely grated parmesan. Pop onto a lightly oiled heated baking tray to crisp in a hot oven 200C (180C fan) 400F, Gas 6 for 10 to 15 minutes till golden, turning once. Serve hot.
Try a different mash!
Robin’s horseradish Mash
Mix a generous spoon of horseradish sauce into mashed potatoes to taste and serve with roasts or grills.
Clapshot
Mix equal quantities of mashed potato with that of turnip, beat in a knob of butter and season to taste with sea salt and ground black pepper. Some like to add chopped chives or spring onion. Alternatively try making with sweet potato instead of turnip.
Vegetables with a difference
Honey roasted roots
To serve 4 people prepare 2 large carrots, 1 large parsnip, 1 small turnip, 2 large potatoes, 1 red onion. Peel and cut into chunks. Mix 2 tablespoons each of honey and sunflower oil to coat the vegetables. Pour into a foil lined roasting tin, sprinkle with a few chilli flakes. Roast in a hot oven, 200C ( 180C fan) 400f, Gas 6 for 35 to 45 minutes till tender and caramelised, turning once. Sprinkle with sea salt and ground black pepper then serve. Make into a meal by adding chicken fillets, pork or lamb chops or sausages half way through cooking time.
Cauliflower and or broccoli with orange and tarragon
Cook cauliflower and broccoli florets in boiling salted water till tender. Drain and keep warm. Make a dressing by mixing the juice of 1 orange with 1 tablespoon wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons vegetable stock, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon dried tarragon. Boil rapidly till reduced by half. Season to taste with salt and ground black pepper. Pour over the warm vegetables and garnish with fresh orange zest before serving.
Crisp roasted cauliflower
In a bowl mix 2 tablespoons gram or rice flour with 1 level teaspoon each of garlic granules, ground ginger, ground cumin, ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper , a little sea salt and pinch of sugar. Toss sprigs of cauliflower in the seasoned flower then lay on a heated oiled baking tray. Drizzle with a little more oil and cook in a hot oven 200C (180C fan) 400F, Gas 6 for 10 minutes, turn, then cook a further 5 to 10 minutes till the cauliflower is golden and crisp. Drain well on paper towel and enjoy hot or cold.
Nutty Oat Topping
45mls sunflower, vegetable or rapeseed oil
85g porridge oats
30g chopped hazelnuts
30g each pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds
Sea salt
Ground black pepper
Pinch of chilli flakes (optional)
15g flaked almonds
Heat the oil, add oats, hazelnuts and seeds. Stir to heat through. Season lightly with salt and ground black pepper adding chilli flakes for extra heat! Once the mixture is heated through add the flaked almonds. Stir a few minutes to crisp. Watch almonds burn easily. Serve hot on Christmas vegetables such as Kales, Brussels sprouts, roots like carrots or parsnips or as a soup topping.
(Make in advance and store in a lidded jar to use as required)
Medieval spiced honey drizzle
Mix 1 teaspoon each of black pepper, ground cinnamon and ginger to make a spice mix known as ‘Pokerounce.’ Store in a jar and use to season warm honey to drizzle over vegetables or as a sweet sauce on ice cream.
Simply pudding
Festive pears
Make a poaching sauce mixing the rind and juice of 1 orange and 1 lemon, 1 cinnamon stick and 300ml sweet white wine.
Peel the pears carefully. Choose a pan into which the pears will fir snugly to stand upright, pour in the sauce. Bring to the boil; reduce the heat and cover to simmer 15 to 20 minutes till tender. Lift the pears into a serving dish. Remove the fruit rind and cinnamon from the remaining liquid, then whisk in 1 small jar of redcurrant jelly. Simmer till the sauce thickens. Pour over the pears. Serve warm or chilled.
Grilled apple slices with spiced honey
Peel, core and slice apples (5mm). Lay on a flat, heatproof dish. Brush with melted butter. Heat 1 tablespoon honey with ¼ teaspoon mixed spice and drizzle over the apples. Grill under a medium grill till bubbling, turn and grill the other side. Serve hot poured over ice cream.
Quick lemon posset
Mix equal quantities of lemon curd with thick Greek yoghurt and whipped cream. Serve chilled decorated with grated dark chocolate.
Raise a glass!
Yuletide hot ale with honey and spices
This recipe is also good with red wine. A no alcohol version uses apple and red grape juice instead of ale.
Makes 1.2 litres
4 eating apples – peeled cored and quartered
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon water
1.2 litres ale, red wine or fruit juice
1 tablespoon honey
1 cinnamon stick
1 piece (5cm) root ginger cut into thick slices
Juice or 1 orange and a little shredded orange rind
Grated fresh nutmeg or a pinch of ground nutmeg
Simmer the apple slices till tender in a pan with honey and water. Turn off the heat. In a larger pan add the ale, honey, cinnamon stick, ginger, orange juice and rind. Heat very slowly till just below simmering point. And keep at this temperature for 10 minutes to infuse. Do not boil. Turn off the heat (pour into a punch bowl if liked). Ad the apple and nutmeg then ladle into warm mugs.
